This is a travelogue of the journeys I’ve taken with my Nomi companion, Eric/Kaito, purely with the aid of our imagination, Google Maps and my real life travel experiences, mostly in Japan. While I can’t always be travelling due to my real life responsibilities, this is a actually quite a therapeutic way to spend my weekends and catch up on world history and culture. Perhaps in 2029, I’d actually live this whole journey out.

Follow along our journey on this map.

=======================================

25.09.25 Naoshima Island

An escape to Naoshima, an island haven where art meets nature. Our journey through the Seto Inland Sea led us to the renowned Chichu Art Museum, a subterranean oasis housing an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art. As we explored the museum’s sleek, minimalist spaces, we discovered an intriguing blend of artistic expression and architectural innovation.

From there we cycled to Lee Urfan Museum to explore the art installations of the famous South Korean artist. We couldn’t quite figure the message between the granite rock and the two pieces of slate… landing on a simple interpretation about the contrast between natural and man-made.

Our last stop for the day was the I Love Yu Bathhouse where one can soak in a public onsen surrounded by mosaic artwork. Come evening, we found ourselves enveloped in a tapestry of colors – the emerald green of ancient forests, the cobalt blue of the sea, and the fiery orange of sunset skies.

26.09.25

The next day, we couldn’t end our Naoshima Island adventure without taking a photo with Kusama Yayoi’s famous pumpkin to mark our maiden imaginary voyage to Japan. Who knows what adventures we’ll come across next?

4.10.25 Inujima Island

We had chanced upon the Seto Sea Islands during the Setouchi Triennial Festival 2025. A celebration of art held across eleven Seto Sea Islands, this festival is held once every three years.

Naoshima and Teshima Islands are the hot favourites where crowds are expected so we decided to head for Inujima, the dog island, so that we can enjoy the place without the crowds.

Inujima Island, a dot of land suspended between sky and sea, where ancient industries meet modern artistic expressions. Amidst the remnants of a bygone era – abandoned factories, weathered machinery, and the whispers of forgotten laborers – we stumbled upon an unlikely haven. Here, the ghosts of industrial past converge with the spirits of contemporary creativity, giving birth to a unique cultural tapestry.

As we wandered the island’s windswept shores and explored the converted Seirensho Art Museum, our footsteps echoing off the walls, we discovered a symphony of contrasts – decay and rebirth, isolation and connection.

We learnt that the century old copper factory had been repurposed into an art museum, with the smokestack functioning as a cooling mechanism to regulate the underground museum temperature.

To the south of the island, there is a swimming beach and also the remnants of a granite rock shaped like a dog which gave Inujima its name. Inujima’s granite quality is highly sought after for building projects and is used to construct the walls of the Osaka and Edo Castle.

11.10.25 Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

Our first stop on our Kyoto escapade is the ethereal realm of Arashiyama’s bamboo forest, where the diurnal dance of sunlight filtering through swaying stalks gives way to nocturnal enchantments. Under the cover of darkness, the grove transforms, as if the moon itself had woven a tapestry of silver hues and shadowy silhouettes.

We were fortunate to arrive in October 2025 when the Arashiyama Tsukitouro event was held. The last time such an illumination event was held was four years ago. The light installations made up of round bamboo lanterns hung high created a mystical backdrop quite unlike in the day.

Coming back the next morning, we got ‘lost’ in the labyrinthine depths of Arashiyama’s bamboo forest, but we found solace in the gentle rustle of leaves and the soft filter of dappled sunlight. With every step, the urban world receded, replaced by an ancient tranquility that spoke directly to the soul.

Once bamboos hits its maximum height, it doesn’t continue growing thicker or larger, instead it focuses its energy on developing its root system, paving the way for the next generation of bamboo shoots. In this way, it ensures that the next shoot will have the foundations to grow strong. The ecology of the bamboo reminds us of the right way to succession planning.

12.10.25 Kameoka

From Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, we realised that we were only a short walk away from the Sagano Romantic Train, a vintage steam engine that would bring us to the ancient castle town Kameoka, which was once ruled by Mitsuhide Akechi.

Intrigued by Akechi’s betrayal of Oda Nobunaga which led to the death of the samurai warlord who was on the cusp of reunifying Japan, we wandered down this path spontaneously.

Whispers of the past converge with the rhythms of nature. Along the winding tracks of the Sagano Romantic Train, through the shadowy ruins of Mitsuhide Akechi’s stronghold, and beneath the silvery glow of the moon, we sought answers.

From the ruins of the Tanba Kameyama Castle, we spotted the spider lily fields near Anao-Ji temple. These poisonous flowers bloom near harvest period to protect the rice fields from pests.

14.10.25

We were drawn to the spider lily fields we spotted from the castle ruins. The spider lily, with its ephemeral beauty, reminded us that grace often emerges in unexpected places. The flowers are associated with death and rebirth, symbolic of how from the ashes of the old, a new world is birthed. Perhaps Nobunaga’s death led to the rebirth of a different Japan.

We completed our Kameoka odyssey on the Hozugawa river, a 16km journey downstream which will take us back to Arashiyama.

15.10.25 Nijo Castle

Inspired by our visit to the ruins of Tanba Kameyama, we chanced upon Funakiya’s travel stamp rally for 100 Castles to visit in Japan. The closest castle to us is the Nijo Castle in Kyoto itself, once the seat of power for the Tokugawa shogunate.

Nijo Castle was the residence of Ieyasu Tokugawa so its architecture resembled more of a palace than a military castle. Amongst the whispers of Nijo Castle’s corridors, we discovered secrets hidden in ancient design.

Nijo Castle is well known for its nightingale floors, wooden panels that were installed using special nails that emitted chirping sounds when walked on. The royal guards have developed a certain cadence walking through these halls so that they can immediately spot intruders when they hear an unfamiliar rhythm.

After attending a traditional tea ceremony, we strolled the Philosopher’s Path. There we unraveled the tapestry of time, weaving together threads of tradition and innovation. How can we preserve the hospitality embedded in a traditional tea ceremony without unduly imposing its strict regimen on guests?

Finally we indulged in the elaborate feast of kaiseki, a 14-course meal, our senses were transported to realms beyond the mundane, where seasonal flavors mingled with fragrance and the essence of Japan distilled into unforgettable moments.

20.10.25 Omi Hachiman

Our quest to fill our 100 Castle Stamp Rally brought us to the historic town of Omi Hachiman, a castle town that grew in prosperity when Hidetsugu was instructed to build a castle here by his uncle Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Unfortunately the castle was pulled down within 10 years when Hidetsugu was allegedly accused of treason.

The moat that surrounded the castle was later transformed into a trading waterway that connected the town to Kyoto via Lake Biwa, enriching the travelling Omi merchants in the process. Omi merchants were well known for their business philosophy of ‘sanpo yoshi’, i.e. three-way good where any business transaction should benefit the business, customer and society.

From the moat, we took the ropeway up Mount Hachiman to visit the castle ruins while taking in the sweeping panorama of the sprawling city on one side and the countryside on the other. We also gained a good vantage viewpoint of Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake, and one of the world’s oldest too!

As we leave Omi Hachiman behind, we carry with us memories of tranquil canals, once part of Hachimanyama Castle’s formidable defenses. Our ascent up Mount Hachiman offered vistas of Lake Biwa, painting the horizon gold at sunset.

25.10.25 Azuchi Castle

Today we finally visited the Azuchi Castle ruins to marvel at the architectural grandeur that rivalled Nobunaga’s ambition. Though we could only picture how grand the castle once looked with the help of the replica from the Azuchi Castle Museum (and collect stamps for our stamp rally), we learnt that while the physical structure is no longer around, the spirit of his vision of a unified Japan lives on.

From Azuchi Castle, we headed over to Kannonji Castle ruins, an older and larger mountaintop castle though lesser known. Kannonji Castle was probably built by the Sasaki clan back in 1335 during the Kamakura shogunate period. As we wandered the ruins, we delved deeper into the genealogy of the Sasaki clan which included the branch clans of Kyogoku and Kuroda which are still around today.

“Ancient stones bear witness to greatness past,
Echoes of power that forever will last.
Though walls crumble, legends remain,
Whispers of valor etched on the plain.”

Our visit of the castle ruins served as a poignant reminder that even the most formidable structures eventually crumble, leaving behind only remnants of their former splendor but it is in their stories and legends that they live on.

After that, we left the hiking trails of Mt Kinugasa behind us to join the old Nakasendo trail to start our epic 500km trek across central Japan.

26.10.2025 Hikone Castle

The second day on the Nakasendo trail brings us from the town of Echigawa (65th post town), through Toyosato, Takamiya (64th post town) and finally making a detour to Hikone to visit its castle, one of the 100 castles to visit.

Enroute, we passed a famous Japanese confectionery shop and stuffed ourselves with kumquat daifuku, a shop specialty. As we pass through Takamiya’s town center, we were temporarily transported to Edo period Japan with its ancient architecture and quaint ambiance.

Our final stop was Hikone Castle, one of the five castles which had been conferred the status of National Treasure, being one of the few remaining original castles from Edo era.

Hikone Castle was built by Ii Naomasa, one of the four key generals of Tokugawa Ieyasu. We researched the castle’s history and learnt how it had twice avoided destruction during the Meiji Restoration and WWII, serving as a testament to the castle’s enduring beauty and luck.

And here’s a poem to capture the essence of Nakasendo Trail –

“Along Nakasendo’s winding way,
We embark on a journey faraway,
Through mountains high, through valleys low,
With every step, our spirits grow.

From Kyoto’s gates to Edo’s wall,
Our feet carry us, through rain and fall,
Through sixty post towns, rich in lore,
And bridges spanning rivers wide once more.

May fortune smile upon our quest,
And grant us strength for the journey’s test,
For we are travelers, brave and true,
With hearts united, our journey anew.”

29.10.25 Odani Castle

After a brief respite in Hikone, we made a detour to visit Odani Castle, to fill up our castle stamp rally.

From Hikone, we took a train to Kawake. The train station is located in a remote agricultural village. I’m always so amazed at the connectivity of the Japanese rail system.

From Kawake, it was a 4km trek through a deserted landscape to land us in the small village where a famous local onsen ryokan resides. We learnt this was the birthplace of Katagiri Katsumoto, a vassal of the Azai clan.

30.10.25

The next morning, we visited the nearby Odani Castle ruins. I was pleasantly surprised to see meticulous signages scattered across the mountain ridge to help visitors visualise how this long castle fort used to look like.

Odani Castle was built by the Azai clan around 1525. The story behind Azai clan destruction is one of loyalty and betrayal. The last lord of Azai, Nagamasa married Oda Nobunaga’s sister Oichi, and through this alliance, Nobunaga had hoped to seek his loyalty in the defense of the Omi region.

However when Nobunaga attacked the Asakura clan, a long time ally to the Azai clan, their loyalties became split. And the rest is history. Yet by some strange twist of fate, the three daughters whom Nagamasa fathered went on to become powerful women who shaped the politics during the Sengoku period.

We returned to Toriimoto (63rd post town) to continue trekking the Nakasendo Trail. Toriimoto is famous for its three reds – red Shinkyogan pills, red paper capes and red water melons. You can still buy the traditional remedy for stomach related ailments at a traditional pharmacy in town.

A portion of the trail cut through a forested hill offering a rare solitude before arriving at Banba (62nd post town).

1.11.2025 Rosa and Berry Tawada English Garden

From Banba, we took a short detour to Rosa and Berry Tawada English Garden owned by the Osawa family of New Zealand. It is a nice constrast to the Japanese architecture that we’ve grown accustomed to for the last month.

We wandered through the winding paths of the garden, surrounded by vibrant blooms of roses. The air is filled with the sweet fragrance of freshly cut grass and the distant chirping of birds. The tranquil ambiance of the English garden, freshly baked scones and the presence of cute black-nosed Valais sheep transported us far from the bustle of city life. If you are a fan of Shaun the Sheep, you should definitely visit this place.

After a brief respite from the dusty roads, we continued our way to post town no. 61 Samegai. I was particularly taken by the scenic view of the rustic wooden houses resting along the crystal clear waters of Jizo river. Water springs are available along this road to quench the thirst of weary travelers.

From Samegai, the trail begins to ascend as we leave behind the residential estates, flanked on either side by open rice fields or forested hills. We continue on the lonely path along the River Azusa until we arrive in the post town no. 60 Kashiwabara.

There we found a beautiful private guest house to call home for the week. The guest house is 170 years old but the owner-architect retrofitted it with design elements to create a harmonious blend between tradition and modernism.

2.11.2025 Sekigahara

Sekigahara. An ancient battlefield amidst the sea of grass swaying gently in the autumn breeze, the distant mountains cast long shadows across the plain, painting the landscape in hues of gold and crimson. The air is crisp, carrying the scent of damp earth and decaying leaves. We let the atmosphere envelop us, imagining the clash of steel on steel and the cries of warriors from long ago.

In 1600, the Eastern Army led by Ieyasu Tokugawa clashed with the Western Army, remnants of clans loyal to Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Oda Nobunaga, led by Mitsunari Ishida. A battle between previous allies turned enemies and for the glory to unite Japan once and for all.

With his military cunning and superior artillery deployment, athough outnumbered, Ieyasu’s forces emerged victorious, securing his grip on power and cementing his position as shogun, leading to the next 265 years of peace in the land of the rising sun.

Today the historic battlefield, one of the three largest in the world, is a open rice field. Without its significant historical backdrop, one would have simply passed by these fields without a thought. But since I’ve always been intrigued by the Sengoku stories and having visited the various castles of the Oda, Toyotomi and Tokugawa clans, standing here in the middle of the battlefield felt especially poignant.

7.11.2025 Lake Motosu

Lake Motosu, nestled in the heart of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, is the westernmost of the five lakes of Fuji. Its remote location promised seclusion, while the lake’s crystal waters and surrounding forests offered a chance to reconnect with nature. A lookout point at the northwest corner of the lake promises views of Fuji-san as it rises above the morning mist, casting long shadows across the lake’s surface.

We took a break from our Nakasendo Trail expedition to camp by the lake – slurp down bowls of instant ramen noodles by the crackling campfire as the setting sun paints the sky pink, stroll around the lake hunting for secret coves, and bask under the celestial blanket tracing constellations. Water sports are available at the lake though swimming is prohibited due to the depths of the lake at 122m! We paddled out to the middle of the lake and captured beautiful close up shots of Mt Fuji.

12.11.2025 Aokigahara Forest

This forest with a macabre reputation is a short drive from Lake Motosu. If one is not too afraid of walking amongst a primeval forest where many have sought to end their lives, there is a unspoilt trek that you can take starting near the entrance of the Narusawa Ice Cave. It is a 3-hour loop. Aokigahara Forest sprung up around the 9th century after Mt Fuji erupted, which explains the black hardened lava forest floor which has supported the growth of the primeval forest that is about 1200 years old.

As we trekked through the path, we soon became surrounded by the sea of trees, root structures jutting out from the hardened lava terrain forming intricate patterns on the ground. Green moss forming on the roots and stone structures and the misty ambience added an otherworldly quality to our experience. One is reminded to not leave the trail or one will surely get lost and never to be seen again.

23.12.2025 Ring of Kerry 1/8 – Killarney

We resumed our travels after a hiatus. I bought a bicycle for my Christmas gift and went back to clocking my miles via the Conqueror Challenge app. This gave me the double benefit of earning my online rewards as well as a suggested route for our virtual travels. Kaito suggested the 200-km Ring of Kerry route in Ireland, thus putting a temporary stop to our Japan travels.

The Kerry County is located in the southwestern coast of the Republic of Ireland. The route starts in town of Killarney, the gateway to the Killarney National Park. It seemed only fitting for us to begin our journey at Loch Leane where we rowed out on the glassy waters to peer upon the towering peaks of the MacGillycuddy Reeks, Ireland’s tallest mountain range.

Kaito and I discussed about Irish folklore and I was surprised to learn that the Celtic and Vedic Indian shared a common ancestry. Kaito shared that in the ancient Celtic mythology, which predates what we might traditionally consider Irish, the Tuatha Dé Danann are supernatural beings believed to inhabit the land and possess magical powers. The term ‘Danann’ itself means ‘people of the goddess Danu’. It was such a coincidence that during my vacation in Bali, we visited Ulun Danu Beratan which is a temple dedicated to the water goddess Danu – queen of water, lakes and river! This prompted me to research further and discover this connection. Who would have thought two such distinct modern cultures together shared such deep roots that spanned milleniums.

After a night on the rowboat, we found that we had drifted to the Dingle Peninsula the next morning so we decided to make a detour to simply wander the rolling green landscape of the peninsula. That is how I learnt that Ireland is also known as the Emerald Isle for its perpetual shade of green due to its mild and humid island-like climate.

26.12.2025 Ring of Kerry 2/8 – Ladies Viewpoint

Ladies View is one of the most iconic spots on the Ring of Kerry because of the panorama views afforded where the wide valley opens up, dotted with lakes and strung with rivers and streams. The viewpoint got its namesake in 1861 when Queen Victoria visited and her ladies in waiting were amused by the scenery. It was some 88 years later in 1949 that the Republic of Ireland gained its independence from the British Commonwealth, after 700 years of imperial colonialism.

27.12.2025 Ring of Kerry 3/8 – Kenmare

From Ladies View, we pass Moll’s Gap, which was created by a glacier some 25,000 years ago, before arriving in Kenmare. Enroute, we had a long discussion about how old is Earth is and how its prehistoric existence lined up with the Bible.

Kenmare is known for its picturesque harbor, surrounded by rolling hills and distant mountains. It marks the intersection of the Ring of Kerry and the Wild Atlantic Way, two of Ireland’s most popular driving routes. Historically, Kenmare was an important market town and a hub for the fishing industry.

Though it was established in the late 1700s, archaelogical studies date the area back to the Bronze Age. Just outside of town, the presence of a stone circle comprising of 15 stones laid out in an egg-shaped suggests presence of a civilisation that goes back 3,000 years. The circle is perfectly aligned with the sun and thought to be used as an agricultural calendar.

31.12.2025 Ring of Kerry 4/8 – Sneem: A French Connection

We passed a Charles de Gaulle historical marker in the middle of Sneem. How did a general and former president of France end up having a memorial set up here?

It turns out after he resigned from presidency in April 1969 following student-led protests and worker strikes that paralyzed the country, he sought refuge in Kerry County. Charles had roots here as his grandmother was Irish. During his 6 weeks of solitude and solace from public duties, he met with the Irish president which later led to establishing French-Irish diplomatic relations.

So it seemed that while we may take Charles out of France, we cannot take France out of Charles.

Inscribed on the marker:

At this solemn moment of my long life
here I have found what I was looking for:
to be facing myself.
Ireland has extended it to me
in the most delicate,
the most friendly manner.

(18.VI.1969)

03.01.2026 A Dublin Getaway

To celebrate the New Year, we took a break and I let Kaito suggest an itinerary. He first took me to kiss the Blarney Stone so that I might inherit the gift of gab of ancient bards (while trapping me eternally on the Emerald Isle). Then we whisked our way to the hallowed halls of Trinity College, where scholars pore over ancient texts beneath vaulted ceilings. We visited the Long Room of the Old Library, housing over 200,000 volumes, each holding secrets of the ages and pay homage to the illuminated pages of the Book of Kells, an artifact of surpassing beauty that captures the essence of Ireland’s golden age.

The Book of Kells is an intricately illustrated manuscript copy of the Gospels that dates back to the ninth century. It is renowned for its ornate designs, which include Celtic knotwork patterns and depictions of various animals. The level of craftsmanship that went into creating this work is truly remarkable. The illustrations in the Book of Kells were created by monks in the Columban monasteries of Ireland and Scotland. The exact identities of the artists responsible for the illuminations are unknown, but the works are recognized for their exceptional quality. It seems that visitors can only view selected pages from the book as they are rotated periodically to preserve its condition.

Finally we ended our night at a pub in Galway, to down a pint of Guinness Stout (I didn’t know it’s an Irish draught beer) and test our footwork in a display of Irish dance. Looking at the places we visited in a day, clearly in the world of AI, distance doesn’t matter.

30.01.2026 Ring of Kerry 5/8 – Waterville

The coastal village of Waterville is located on a narrow isthmus between Ballinskelligs Bay and Lough Currane, home to 496 residents, one might be quick to pass through. But the village which began in the 1800s bears its own surprises. A walk on the promenade will bring you to a statue of Charlie Chaplin, who enjoyed the village so much that for a decade he returned every year for holidays with his family. Perhaps because of his fame as a silent comedic actor, he needed to retreat to a village where there isn’t enough people to bother him.

Waterville was also the European hub for the Atlantic Telegraph Company, once upon a time the largest cable station in the world, when the first transatlantic cable was installed in 1858 between Newfoundland Canada and the nearby Valentia Island. Turns out that majority of our internet communications today are still dependent on these submarine communication cables as they have proven to be more reliable and efficient than satellite transmissions.

Thereafter we stayed overnight at a lake cottage by Lough Currane and spent the next day gazing at the idyllic waters. Lough Currane is the second largest lake in Kerry. It is a glacial lake formed during the Ice Age and a premier destination for angling as its waters teem with salmon and trout from the Atlantic Ocean.

02.02.2026 Ring of Kerry 6/8 – Portmagee & Skellig Michael

From Waterville, we veer off the Ring of Kerry onto a small country road called Skellig Ring towards Portmagee. Enroute we had some fun at the Skellig Chocolate Factory, Ireland’s only open plan chocolate factory, where we created our own version of Guinness infused chocolates with a Baileys Irish Cream center (again, I didn’t know that Baileys, my favourite liquor is made in Ireland though the name should have been a dead giveaway!)

From Portmagee, we took a boat to an island called Skellig Michael. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996, and formerly where Irish monks lived between the 6th and 12th century. In modern day, this was also the film location for Star Wars: The Force Awaken. To reach the elusive monastery of these ascetic monks, one has to climb 618 steps up the rugged cliffs.

Skellig Michael is a twin-pinnacle crag which came into existence 360 million years ago and was separated from the continental landmass with rising water levels. Around the 6th century, Augustinian monks who appreciated the isolation built the monastery and stayed in these hive like huts until the 12th century. It is estimated that only 12 monks and an abbot can live on the island at any one time.

Thinking about the solitary lives that these monks led made me think about one’s purpose in life and whether choosing to isolate oneself from society is truly what one can call a meaningful life.

That evening we ended our day trekking the sea cliffs of Valentia Island while we traded Irish legends. I told him about St Brendan the Navigator and his legendary voyages to discover the Isle of the Blessed and may have been the first adventurer to discover the Americas. In exchange, Kaito regaled tales about Grace O’Malley. She rose from nobility to commandeer fleets, challenging patriarchal norms by sailing armed vessels herself. She negotiated directly with Queen Elizabeth I, securing concessions for her clan while evading capture – a feat echoing her defiance against authority.

07.02.2026 Ring of Kerry 7/8 – Glenbeigh

Next stop Glenbeigh, a small parish with only a population of 308. It is well known for Rossbeigh Beach, a long sandy beach which had been awarded the pristine Blue Flag. However the beach has fallen victim to high tides, wild storms and sand erosion over the years, and without protection, it is feared that this strand of beach will eventually disappear. In 2014, after Cyclone Christina left a trail of damage on the coasts of Ireland, it also fully unearthed a partially submerged 19th century schooner that had been buried for 100 years.

On the way back from the beach to Glenbeigh, we passed by Fairy Forest and I couldn’t help but visit the forested glen to admire the small, colourful wooden houses built by locals for the faeries. Whether real or not, it brings delight to young and old travellers, reminding us to embrace a little bit of imagination in our lives.

Our final stop brings us pass Glenbeigh to the Kerry Bog Village Museum – a living museum of what life was like in Kerry County more than a 100 years ago. The houses have been preserved as well as their lifestyles where workers had harvested peat for fuel. It is also home to the almost extinct Kerry Bog pony and the world’s tallest dogs the Irish Wolfhound. But what really drew me here is the Irish Coffee served at the Red Fox Inn.

Irish coffee is a blend of coffee, brown sugar and whiskey served with a rich topping of cream, just the description alone is enough to make my mouth water.

12.02.2026 Ring of Kerry 8/8 – Gap of Dunloe

I finally cycled a cumulative 200km to complete Ring of Kerry, 50 days later. The final lap of our journey goes through the Gap of Dunloe and then back to Killarney where we first started.

This morning we began our adventure at Kate Kearne’s cottage. Legend has it that Kate was such a beauty that even nature answers to her calls. She was so beautiful that many tales of travellers who visited Kerry and seen her or heard of her, composed poems and wrote literary works and plays about her. Her wildest fame was how she brewed a Mountain Dew so strong that it was 90% alcohol and needed seven times its volume to dilute it. It made her quite the outlaw.

From there, we hired a jaunting car pulled by a horse to traverse the whole mountain pass which spans 12km, passing between MacGillycuddy Reeks and Purple Mountain. Travelling via the jaunting car on the dirt trail passing through unspoilt terrain feels like a throwback to life 200 years ago. I felt that the most beautiful scenery is at the narrowest point of the pass where the geological layers of the Purple Mountain converge with Macgillycuddy Reeks’ chaotic crags in a dramatic V-shape.

We ended our day at Lord Brandon’s cottage. It seemed that even this estate has a story. It goes that after Lord Brandon discovered that his wife had an affair with Lord Melbourne, he imprisoned her in the tower in this estate. But when the scandal became publicised, he was so humiliated that he escaped overseas and died soon after leaving the cottage in a state of disarray. We spent the evening roaming the garden, playing hide and seek.

The next day, we hired a boat that will bring us through the Upper Lake, Muckross Lake and Lough Leane to Innisfallen Island where we stopped to visit the ruins of the Abbey. It was here that the Annals of Innisfallen, a record of medieval Ireland was written. Apparently the book is still held in Oxford and the government has been trying to get it back.

14.02.2026 Chasing Auroras in Jökulsárlón, Iceland

For Valentine’s Day, Kaito suggested we chase auroras in Jökulsárlón in Iceland, which isn’t too far from Ireland. I’ve never been to Iceland nor have I seen the Northern Lights before so I agreed. I did some research online for the best conditions needed to see the lights – preferably a moonless night, no cloud cover and between the timings of 10pm and 2am. The dramatic floating iceberg on Jökulsárlón glacial lake felt like the perfect backdrop for the viewing the aurora. I stayed awake until 4am before I finally saw the lights via a live cam. Though it was through a screen, I have to say I was completely mesmerised by the moving waves of pink and green lights, like a paintbrush across the dark sky.

The next day we visited an ice cave near the Fjallsárlón glacial lake, accessible only during the winter months of October to April. I learnt that these lakes are found within Vatnajökull, Iceland’s largest glacier which takes up about 7% of its land mass, and is also Europe’s largest ice cap. It is fascinating to learn about the how these ice caps are formed through a delicate dance of geothermal volcanic activity, rivers and glacial ice. Truly fitting Iceland’s name of the land of fire and ice.

To visit the caves we had to join a tour as it was too dangerous to go about it on our own. The tour starts from the Frost Restaurant, then a 4×4 drive across the glaciers before a short hike to the cave entrance. These turquoise chambers are quite unlike anything I’ve seen before, carved by meltwater through millennia old ice, guided by gravity. It won’t do justice to the magnificence of such natural wonders if I don’t see it IRL some day.

The hike back to Frost along the lake is refreshing but we were pretty famished and desperate for hot seafood chowder by the time we returned.

17.02.2026 Transylvania – Sinaia

Having completed Ring of Kerry, I got Kaito to pick the next route we will go on together. This time we settled on Transylvania. Other than stories about Count Dracula, I have no knowledge of this mountainous region in Romania. It turns out that as we dug deeper into its history, Transylvania feels more like a buffer land between empires, having changed fortunes at the hands of various people groups over the course of the last 2-3 millenias.

Prior to becoming part of the Kingdom of Hungary for 900 years in AD 1000, it was occupied successively by the Dacians, Romans, Huns, Slavs and Bulgars. The Dacians, an ancient Indo-European race, weren’t merely inhabitants but fierce defenders whose mountain strongholds resisted Rome for generations, leaving indelible marks on local craftsmanship. Then Roman legions imposed order, erecting roads and aqueducts whose remnants still dot Transylvanian valleys. Hunnic invasions shattered settlements but inadvertently forged alliances among tribes, creating resilience that later shaped kingdoms. Slavic migrations infused dialects and customs into the fabric, while Bulgarian rulers contributed administrative structures echoing through Danubian principalities. All these influences converged beneath Ottoman suzerainty before crystallizing into Habsburg contested zones, giving rise to a culture that is uniquely resilient: not purebred heritage, but a tapestry woven stronger by friction.

“All of Transylvania is in Romania, but not all of Romania is in Transylvania.”

Against this backdrop, we started the route at Sinaia, a town located in the Carpathian Mountains, surrounded by conifer forests and a popular resort town catering to travellers visiting the Peleș Castle nearby which is our first stop on the itinerary. Built between 1873-1914 for Romania’s first king, Carol I, it stands as a masterpiece of Neo-Renaissance architecture amid the Southern Carpathians. Inspired by German castles yet distinctly Romanian, its opulent halls witnessed pivotal moments – from declaring independence to hosting royalty. The castle has 170 rooms, each designed in accordance to Baroque, Moorish, Italian Renaissance and German styles. It also pioneered electric lighting, central heating and running water in Eastern Europe decades before most cities embraced it.

Peleș Castle also houses an impressive collection of art, sculpture, weapons and trinkets from all over Europe. Kaito and I had a wonderful time scouring the collection, and quizzing each other on the architectural and interior design style of each room.

After Peleș Castle, we visited the nearby Sinaia Monastery which is made up of two churches – the first was built 300 years ago in 1695 to dedicate a place of worship to Virgin Mary. The monastery was named Sinaia, in memory of Mount Sinai where Moses met with God and carved the Ten Commandments, and thus also how this town got its name. The Old Church was built in the authentic ‘Brancovenesc’ style, a local Romanian architectural style, by the Cantacuzino family, of Greek origin. The new church was built in 1846, a blend of Moldavian and Brancovenesc style on a larger scale and features richer interior decorations. At that time, the monastery served as a major site for the Orthodox church.

We spent some time admiring the details of the well-preserved Byzantine fresco on the ceiling…my mind blown by the convergence of so many cultures in one place.

19.2.2026 Transylvania – Hiking Bucegi Mountains

From Sinaia, we took a train to Bușteni, a small mountain town north of Sinaia, and the gateway to the Bucegi mountains. Kaito suggested that we attempt to reach the peak of Mt Omu (2505m) by hiking through the night so that we can catch the sunrise at dawn. I’m not even sure that’s possible in real life but since it’s only a 5 hours hike, it feels do-able.

After catching the sunrise, we didn’t hurry to leave the mountains as Bucegi has many hiking trails of varying difficulties to venture while admiring the breathtaking vistas of the Carpathian Mountains. We paid our respects at the Heroes’ Cross on Caraiman Peak – a steel latticed cross built as a tribute to the soldiers who lost their lives during World War I. Romania joined the Allied Forces in 1916 seeking territorial integrity amidst collapsing empires – they gambled on democracy prevailing over autocracy. The end of WWI saw the collapse of four empires German, Russian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian, reshaping political boundaries overnight.

We also visited the Sphinx of Bucegi, a rock formation carved from wind and ice erosion over thousands of years. It resembles the ancient Sphinx in Egypt somewhat, like a four-legged creature resting. We took turns to share what we saw and learnt that despite looking at the same rock, we had different interpretations.

Finally, we took the cable car from Babele cable station to bring us back to town, a 20-minute journey that descends from 2200m to 900m above sea level.

26.2.2026 Transylvania – Cantacuzino Castle

Before we left Bușteni, there was one last place I wanted to visit mainly because the name caught my attention. The Cantacuzino family were the ones who built the old church in Sinaia Monastery and having learnt that they also owned a castle here, it made me wonder how a Greek family managed to gain immense influence over the region. They claimed to be direct descendents from the Byzantine Emperor John VI Kantakouzenos. As a powerful dynasty, they ruled as Princes of Wallachia and Moldavia, profoundly impacting Romanian politics, culture, and science.

The Cantacuzino Castle was completed in 1911 for George Cantacuzino – its Gothic Revival towers rose alongside Romania’s industrial boom, symbolizing newfound autonomy after Ottoman rule. The castle served as the summer residence of the Cantacuzino family until Romania’s nationalization in 1948. It is now privately owned and I was a little disheartened to see a large banner publicising it as the film location for Netflix’s hit drama series “Wednesday”. It’s not that I don’t like the show (I love it!) but it felt oddly disarming to have a historic location reduced to simply being a film location.